In order to make your decision easier for you, we’ve compiled a list of 7 top-quality long reach hand pruners that are available on the market.

These items were chosen due to their durability and they also have good reviews from customers in terms of price and performance.

After reading these reviews, hopefully, you will be able to make an informed decision when it comes time to purchase a new pruning tool for your home garden or outdoor space.

Quick Summary of the Article

Best Overall Long Hand Pruner – Tabor tools GG12A

Best Budget Option – Zenport ZL610

Best Durable Pruner – Corona SL 4364 DualLINK

Best Extendable Long Hand Pruner – THANOS Extendable Anvil Loppers

Best Long Reach Hand Pruner

1. TABOR TOOLS GG12A Anvil Lopper

Starting our list of the best long reach pruners in the market is this high-quality product by Tabor Tools. It has a solid steel construction, which ensures its durability and strength during operation.

It also features Mil-Spec anvil construction as well as compound leverage action that makes cutting large branches or thick tree limbs easy. This unit comes with a full lifetime limited warranty, which shows its quality and reliability in terms of performance.

If you want to remove or cut branches of up to 2 inches diameter, then this Tabor Tools long reach hand pruner is what you’re looking for. ​Apart from that, the tool features a  curved handle that provides greater comfort and control when cutting branches. ​

Pros

• ​ ​​It is sturdy and has high-quality construction.
• The blade can be sharpened easily if needed.
• It has a great weight balance which makes cutting easier.
• The handle has an ergonomic design for greater comfort, control, and grip when pruning branches or plants in your garden.

Cons ​ ​​​​

• The blade cover is made of plastic and not metal.
• The blade is not sharp enough as some users have noticed while using it.

2. Corona SL 4364 DualLINK

The long reach pruner by Corona has a cutting capacity of up to 1-3/4 inches, which makes it perfect for larger branches and bushes in your garden or outdoor space.

It is made from a high-quality carbon steel blade that will ensure durability during operation and the polymer handle gives the user more comfort and control while cutting large branches or plants.

This hand pruner is lightweight and has a compact size, so it can be stored easily when not in use.

Furthermore, the extended length makes this tool versatile for different uses around your home or garden, as you don’t need to bend down while using it. This product comes with a limited lifetime warranty from the manufacturer.

Pros  ​​​​

• The blade is very sharp and can cut wood of up to 1-3/4 inches.
• It has a lightweight construction that makes it easy to carry around.
• Due to its compact design, this pruner can be stored away easily when not in use.
• The long handle provides better reach and more control while cutting branches or bushes.

Cons ​

• It is slightly difficult to sharpen the blade.

3. THANOS Extendable Anvil Loppers Tree Trimmer

Thanos is a brand that has good quality products for your garden, and this extendable hand pruner is no exception. It has a cutting capacity of up to 1-1/4 inches and is made from high-quality carbon steel.

It features an ergonomic design with an extended handle length of 24 inches which ensures more comfort and control when using it to cut trees or branches in your garden.

The solid metal construction makes this pruner extremely durable and sturdy while the vinyl grips on the handle provide more comfort and a firm grip. The manufacturer provides 10 years warranty for this product. ​

Overall, if you want an extendable long reach hand pruner that can cut branches of up to 2 inches, this is the product for you.

Pros  ​​​​

• It has a sturdy metal construction and durable design which makes it last longer.
• The long extended handle provides comfort and better control when cutting branches or bushes in your garden.
• It does not require any assembly upon purchase. The pruner is ready to use.
• It is great value for your money as it comes with a 10 years warranty from the manufacturer.

​​Cons ​

• not recommended for small branches

4. AIRAJ Extendable Anvil Lopper Tree Trimmer

AIRAJ is another brand that has high-quality tools for your garden. The pruner by this manufacturer features an extended length of 28-40 inches and a cutting capacity of up to 2 inches, making it ideal for branches or trees in your garden.

The blade is made from hardened steel and the handle is ergonomically designed to give more comfort. In addition to this, it is extremely easy to use by everyone without any issue whatsoever.

Apart from that, the tool features a  compact and lightweight design which means that you can use it in your garden, attic, or other tight areas. It is very sharp, convenient, and extremely easy to use for cutting down those branches and trimming your garden trees.

Pros ​​​​

• The blade is very sharp and will cut branches of up to 2 inches.
• It has a long extended handle for better control while using it to trim trees or bushes.
• Due to its compact size, this pruner can be used in tight areas.
• It is suitable for those with a low budget as it comes at an affordable price.

Cons ​​​​

• The handle wears out quickly especially after using this tool frequently.

5. Haus & Garten PowerPRO Compound Action Bypass Loppers

This compound action loppers by Haus & Garten feature a cutting capacity of up to 2 inches and has a length of 29 inches. These features make it one of the best tree pruners for your home or garden.

The handle is ergonomically designed, which allows you to have better control while using it to cut branches or trimmings from trees.

The blade is made of high-quality hardened steel, and the overall product has been designed for long-lasting use. It comes with a limited lifetime warranty from the manufacturer so you can be sure that this pruner will last long and serve its purpose in your garden.

Another thing that makes it stand out from the crowd is its lightweight design which makes it easy and convenient to use. It is great for people who are looking for pruners that can fit in tight areas, due to their compact size.

Pros ​​​​

• It has a lightweight design and is very easy and comfortable to use.
• The handle of this product is ergonomically designed for better comfort and control.
• The blade is made from high-quality hardened steel, which makes it durable and sturdy to last long.
• It has a compact size that fits in tight places so you can use this pruner for pruning shrubs or bushes in your garden.

Cons ​​​​

• needs to be open very wide for cutting branches

6. Zenport ZL610 Long Reach Pruner

Another great pruner by Zenport features a 24-inch fixed handle so you can cut branches of up to 3/8 inches. It has been designed with comfort and safety in mind as the handle is ergonomically shaped for your hands.

The blades are sharpened using tungsten carbide which means the tool will last longer than you expect. It also comes with a protective plastic sheath to cover the blades whenever you are not using it.

The lightweight design of this pruner means that it is easy to use and carry around your home or garden without any issues. The stainless steel material makes the tool strong and durable for more than just one use.  Moreover, it is a perfect piece of equipment for every home garden.

Pros ​​​​

• Extremely lightweight and easy to use as it comes with a fixed handle.
• High-quality blades are made from stainless steel that is sharpened using tungsten carbide for better cutting.
• It has a low price, making it affordable even for those on a tight budget.

Cons ​​​​

• Handles tend to break over time with continuous use.

7. Hortem Long Reach Pruner Set

Give your pruning a professional look with this set by Hortem. It features pruners that are up to 2 inches in diameter so you don’t have to spend time cutting down branches or trimmings.

This means it is suitable for trimming hedges, bushes, and trees in your garden which makes the tool one of the best pruners for sale in the market. Moreover, it is a 3 pcs set that contains a long reach hand pruner, gardening gloves, and garden shears

The main long hand pruner is 31 inches long and is capable of cutting 2 inches branches as mentioned earlier. Apart from that, it consists of a premium quality material that makes it quite long-lasting.

Pros ​​​​

• The blades are made from high-quality hardened steel, which is sharp, sturdy, and long-lasting.
• It has a premium quality handle with an ergonomic design which makes it more comfortable while using.
• Contains 3 items in the set: hand pruner, gloves, and garden shears to make your work easier.

Cons ​​​​

• The long hand pruner could have an extendable handle

How to Select the Best Long Reach Hand Pruner (Buyer’s Guide)

Before you go out and buy a long reach hand pruner, here are some things that you need to consider.

Your Budget

The first thing that comes into the picture when it comes to selection is your budget.

These tools are not cheap, but they’re certainly not as expensive as electric or gas powered trimmers and edgers.

By setting a budget, you won’t be overwhelmed by the sheer variety that is out there and can easily identify the type of pruning tool that will fit into your spending capacity.

Your Purpose

Ideally, these tools are used for pruning dead wood off from trees and shrubs.

However, it can also be used to cut large branches and keep your hedges in shape.

That said, if you have dense shrubbery that needs to be trimmed down or thinned out, then these tools will never do the job for you.

These pruners are only useful for lighter duty purposes like upkeep on farms and doing light pruning jobs at home.

The Material Used

These tools are usually made from either metal or hardened plastic.

Most pruning tools in the market are made up of soft carbon steel, which is known for durability and flexibility.

They must be corrosion resistant in nature since they’re used outdoors on a regular basis.

If you have to choose between steel or plastic, then you can easily decide to go with plastic ones.

These are lighter and more flexible which means that they can cut through thicker branches and bushes without breaking in the process.

Plastic these days is also stronger than ever before; however, if possible, always choose a pruning tool made of steel.

The Handle Length

One thing to look out for when it comes to the quality of long reach hand pruner is its handle length.

Ideally, you want a handle that has an ergonomic design and it should be easy to grip with your hands.

Also, make sure that there are textured panels on the handles to avoid losing your grip when the tool becomes wet.

Durability and Warranty

Last but not least, is the durability of the pruning tool.

The more durable these things are, the more value for money you will get at the end of it all.

Some of these tools come with a lifetime warranty, which is a good sign that the manufacturer has faith in its quality.

By choosing any of these products, you’re sure to get your money’s worth given the fact that they have many positive reviews from previous buyers.

Final Words

Selecting the best long reach hand pruner can be a challenging task especially when there are so many options available. However, you don’t have to worry about anything because we’ve got you completely covered with our in-depth research.

During our analysis, we found that the Tabor tools GG12A proves to be the best overall long hand pruner. Apart from that, the Zenport ZL610 can be the best budget option.

However, if you are looking for a long hand pruner with an extendable handle then we highly recommend the THANOS Extendable Anvil Loppers. If durability is what you are looking for then the Corona SL 4364 DualLINK is your choice to go for.

The post 7 best Long Reach Hand Pruner (Buyer’s Guide and Reviews) appeared first on GardenLovin.

Bees do a lot of work, why not let them have a free stay at your condo for the weekend? Every gardener knows bees are their friends. These great pollinators do so much for us, and frankly, we need them. Creating a bee condo for our garden is the new gardening craze.

What is a Bee Condo?

A bee condo is a small structure that has drilled holes, or hollow tubes providing bees a place to rest their wings temporarily.  Bees leave after they lay eggs, in search for a new place to chill out.  Once the babies are born they too leave the nest, and so your guests really are there short term.

Unlike a hive where they live as a group, bee condos attract mason bees and other species that live solitary lives. Solitary bees don’t sting.  They aren’t protecting anything which means they are more docile and easy to have as guests.  This also means there will be no honey.  They aren’t there for more than a few days.  This is a bee condo, not a hive.

Some of these condos, however, are attracting the wrong crowd.  Avoid hornets and termites taking up space in your condo and provide a great vacation spot for much-needed bees with these great tips!

How to Make a Bee condo

There are so many different ways to build your bee condo.  The simplest form is to use an old carton of milk, plastic soda bottle or a used can and place rolled paper, paper straws or bamboo sticks into it.

And you are done.  Yes, these are simple and functional.

However DIYers tend to like building and so if you are interested in a longer project, grab some scrap wood and start by building a birdhouse type structure.  Make sure your wood is smooth and free from splinters.  Use only non-treated wood.

Your home must have a roof of sorts to protect the bees from wind and rain.  Metal or wood roofing material will work great.  Don’t forget backing.  This will give your condo a sturdy feel, and also provide more weather protection.

Create multiple sizes of “rooms” by providing the paper straw in one side, drilled holes in a block of wood on another side.  Thick cardboard is a great material to make different rooms and can be rolled or bent in many different ways.

You can use nesting material such as yarn, pinecones, leaves, straw or bark to fill in open areas.  The nesting area should be smaller than the condo rooms.  Think of this as your lounge area of your condo .

 source

Place your condo facing south or southeast, away from tree branches of plants that might block the entrances.

Before you run out to make your condo, learn what not to do, to keep unwanted guests out of your condo and make your bee guests relaxed.

DONT’S: 

1- Don’t make your condo the Venetian Resort

Small condos are always better than large ones.  If you want a lot of bee guests, consider placing multiple small condos on your property.  Large ones attract bugs you don’t want and retire more maintenance.

2- Don’t place your bee condo below 3 feet

The higher the better.  This also helps ward off unwanted guests and allows only flyers to stay at your condo.  Make sure your condo is sturdy though and won’t sway with the wind.  Tying your condo to a tree limb will not meet this standard.

3- Don’t spray pesticides

This is an obvious one but many homeowners spray their lawns and then are surprised their bee condos were affected.  If you must spray do it when bees are not active- after dusk, or before dawn.  Be aware of the wind and spray away from the condo.

4- Don’t leave your condo out all year

condos should be brought out in early spring just in time for mating season and left out until the fall.  You can check your bee condo to see if there is any larvae that haven’t eaten through their pollen provisions to leave the condo.  Once the condo is empty you need to maintain it…which leads me to #5.

5- Don’t run a Motel 6

Cleaning your condo is an annual requirement.  Around October, remove the tubing that has larvae debris or mud.  Create new tubes or holes, for the coming spring.  You can check your condo mid-summer and remove any dirty tubes and replace them, but this is not required and it is best to leave the condo alone.  Put your condo out the following March.

6- Don’t forget to protect your guests

Woodpeckers or other predators could try to ruin a relaxing weekend for your bees.  If this is the case, add a wire mesh sheet in front of the entrances so bees can fly in, but large birds can’t.  In some areas this is completely optional.

Providing a place for your bees to enjoy a quick retreat, is not only helping your environment but also helping your garden grow.  If you aren’t ready for the plunge to own a honey-making hive, try a small bee condo and see what a difference it makes in your garden this year!

The post How to Create a Bee Condo and What not to do! appeared first on GardenLovin.

Hey Millennial friends!   Some people give you a bad rap for always being on computers and not out in nature enough- they are so wrong!  Millennials comprise 80 percent of the 6 million people that took up gardening last year.  You embrace experience over objects, and putting a seed in the ground, helping it grow and eventually eating the food you picked from that plant, is a pretty amazing experience.  Nature is amazAing! And the taste of homegrown food is an experience on its own.  They taste nothing like the waxy sanitized store-bought food that was harvested weeks before it was truly ready to eat.

Millennials want gardening to be easy and produce food.  Which is totally do-able with these great tips and advice.

Containers or Not?

Your garden is what you make it.  You can have a container garden off the balcony of an apartment, you can have a vertical garden planter in your kitchen nook, or a large outdoor garden in your yard.  Certain vegetables work well in pots such as: Herbs, carrots, peppers, lettuces, strawberries, onions, peas and beans.  They have a short root system.

Other plants need a COSTCO size container or are planted in the dirt to have plenty of space for their roots to grow.  These plants are tomatoes, potatoes, raspberries, corn, garlic, broccoli, melons, squashes, and asparagus.

Depending on the space you have and crops you want, figure out where your garden will be.

Soil Prep

If you are using containers use a bag of potted soil.  There are so many options at your local hardware store.  90% of them are the same thing and will work perfectly.

If you are planting a garden you probably need to alter your soil before planting.  You will care about the following:

Texture:  Grab dirt in your hand and squeeze, then let go.

• If the soil falls apart, it won’t hold any water and is too sandy.  Add more grass clippings, compost, or manure to your soil.
• If the soil sticks to itself like playdoh it is too clay-like, and roots won’t be able to grow well and will likely rot.  Add sand to the soil to loosen it up.
• If your soil is a mixture of this, kind of together, kind of crumbling, it is perfect.

Your soil probably needs some air before you start planting.  Each spring you will want to till the dirt.  This is just loosening it and allowing air to get in it.  Use a hand rake, or a tiller to stir up your dirt and give it a deep breath.

Watering

How much you water will change with the season. In the spring plants needless, they are smaller and the days aren’t that hot.  In the summer I double my watering schedule because the hot July days soak up so much of the water from my now large plants.  In the fall you will pull back again.

Start out watering every other day for 5-10 minutes.  Watch your plants.  If they seem to be wilting, but have soft leaves they are getting too much water.  If they are wilting by crispy they are getting too little water.

Check them weekly to see what you need to tweak.  As your plants grow tall, their roots grow deep and longer infrequent waterings will be needed.

Plants are tough little guys, if you think it looks dead, hang on to it, you might just nurse it back to health.

Sun

Obviously, your plants need sun, but “cool” plants need less of it and benefit by being planted near a fence or receive some shade from a tree. “Warm” plants need more sun and do best in the sunniest spot. These warm plants also don’t do well outdoors until the end of May.  Never plant a tomato before Mother’s Day, it will die of cold night temperatures.

Warm Plants: melons, cucumber, corn, peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, beans, raspberries, strawberries, spinach, pumpkin.

Cool Plants: carrots, beets, lettuce varieties, cauliflower, asparagus, peas, garlic, onions, rhubarb, radish.

Planting Plants

Once you have chosen what plants you want to grow, and your soil is ready, purchase seeds or the actually plant.  I would avoid big box stores and go to a nursery, or purchase online from a nursery such as burpee.com.  So many of my friends say they have a black thumb and kill their plants.  In reality, they bought a plant that was barely living and wasn’t as strong as it should be.

Each plant is different.   Corn needs to be planted 1 ½ inches deep in the soil and 1 foot apart from other plants.  Carrots need to be planted ¼” deep with only 2 inches apart.  Read the packaging of your plant or seeds to find out how far apart to space your plants, and how deep to plant them in your soil.  If you can’t find this information google it.

Maintain

Once your garden is set, keep watching it closely for water tweaking.

Weed the garden as well.  Weeds not only will try to choke and kill your plants, but the fruit it produces can have a bitter taste.  There is no magic week preventer, although many companies claim they have it.   Some help, but they are not a 100% weed preventor at all.

You have bugs in your soil, more so than potted gardens.  There are good ones and there are bad ones.  Use natural pesticides to ward off the bad ones without killing your plants and altering the ecosystem dramatically. A mixture of 1 cup vegetable oil and 1 TBSP mild soap, and 1 quart of water can be sprayed to get rid of aphids, mites and other obnoxious bugs.   Spreading diatomaceous earth around plants can also create a natural barrier that bugs can’t cross.  It works wonders in humid places where slugs and snails are problems.

Harvest 

Each crop has a different harvest time.  Generally pick your fruit at the end of the day, after it has been sunbathing all day.  Harvest on your non-water days as well.  If you pick them right after watering you can have a freshly watered-down taste to your produce.  Rub off any dirt, but don’t rinse or scrub any of your food until right before you are going to eat them.  This keeps them fresh longer.

Start your garden small in the first year. Pick 2-3 different plants and buy at least two of each in case one doesn’t last.

If you have any other questions search my site for an article that probably addressed your question.  I wish you the best of luck planting and hope you have an amazing harvest!

Save this info for the future with a pin!

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When your pets are your family, keeping them safe is a top priority. Houseplants are often a hazard to pets. They can cause tummy aches and digestive problems if chewed on by our furry family and can cause a huge mess if knocked over time and time again.

One way to protect your house, your home, and your pets is to choose pet-friendly houseplants. These nontoxic plants still bring the color, texture, and air purification to your home without worry. By choosing your plants carefully, you can enjoy the beauty of houseplants and maintain happy and healthy pets.

1. Aluminum Plant

The aluminum plant doesn’t sound beautiful, but it pops a bright surprise of gray-and-green leaves that make it a perfect option for the home. It’s one of many great easy-care houseplants safe for pets.

2. African Violet

If you’re looking for something that blooms, look no further than the classic African Violet. This pet-safe flower is a hardworking houseplant that comes in a range of purple hues. Best of all, it’s easy to care for, low maintenance and thrives without bright light.

3. Christmas Cactus

Of course, any pet who wants to play with a cactus is likely to get poked, but Christmas cacti are thankfully not poisonous houseplants for pets like cats and dogs. Be careful to choose the Christmas cacti as opposed to their counterpart amaryllis.

4. Friendship Plant

The friendship plant is a pet-friendly houseplant named for the ease with which it can be divided and shared. While pets are often drawn to the fuzzy, crinkly leaves – it is completely nontoxic.

5. Lace Flower Vine or Chocolate Soldier

If you’re looking for a hanging basket option, the pretty lace flower vine is a great choice. This one is easy to keep out of reach of pets, but even a persistent climbing kitty will be safe with this option.

6. Parlor Palm

A parlor palm is a great plant for beginners and perfect for pet owners. It’s a small tree that thrives in low light conditions, doesn’t require a lot of maintenance and is safe for both cats and dogs.

7. Polka Dot Plant

This fun-patterned plant is perfect for adding a fun splash of patterns and colors to miniature gardens, terrariums, mixed containers, and more. It is versatile, whimsical, and completely nontoxic for all pets.

8. Prayer Plant or Calathea

A prayer plant is a great plant for shelves and end tabled, topping out at 6-8 inches. The red, cream and green leaves curl up at night and greet you in the morning. This interactive plant is easy to grow and safe for pets and kids.

9. Spider Plant

This classic indoor plant maintains its popularity for good reason. It thrives also most anywhere, is cat and dog friendly, and works in both pots and hanging baskets beautifully.

Of course, we still recommend putting plants out of reach of pets, in area where they won’t be bothered, but regardless of how mischievous your four-legged friend may be, these plants are safe for any pet-lover’s home.

Love this article? Pin it for future reference!

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Spring is the most important time to be in the garden. After a winter cooped up inside, all that energy is ready to be used in preparing our garden beds. Spring is the best time to clean out, make repairs, do the maintenance, pruning and moving to start the growing season started off right. Here are the essential spring gardening tasks you can get started on as soon as the frost begins to thaw.

1. Complete a garden audit 

When the sun comes out, it’s time to inspect the beds. Put on your favorite gardening hat, grab a notepad and go see what happened over the winter. Look for damage on the plants, beds that need to be cleaned out, and any hardscaping that need repaired. This may include trellises that shifted, bowed fences, or rotted benches. You also want to look for evidence of any animal problems like chipmunk droppings, skunk burrows, rodent damage, or any moles, voles, or groundhogs.

2. Focus on hardscaping first

In early spring, the ground is still frozen and too hard to do much with. So instead, use this time to repair or build your hardscaping elements like fences, walls, stones, decks, and concrete. This is a great time to clean out the gutters, and prepare window boxes and raised beds for their upcoming debut.

3. Plan for painting 

Once the sun is out on a regular basis, you can start adding a fresh coat of paint, stain or sealant to any hardscaping elements made of wood. Be sure you check the weather before you pull out your paintbrush to ensure that you’ll have enough sunny and dry weather to complete the project.

4. Clean-up Time

As soon as you see your spring bulbs start to pup up, it’s time to clean the plant debris out of your garden beds. Over the winter, leaves, branches, and perennial foliage often clogs the garden beds. Cleaning them out in the spring prevents pests and diseases and gives your new plants a thriving environment. This is also a good time to clean out any water features, pond, or fountains.

5. Test and Feed the Soil

If you haven’t tested your soil in a while, spring is a good time to do it. Over time, the composition of your soil can change. Experts recommend testing your garden soil every 3-5 years. This allows you to see what nutrients or organic materials it needs and which it has too much of. This may alter the type of fertilizer or additives you use throughout the growing season. Instructions on how to collect and submit your soil sample is available on your state’s Extension Service website.  Once you know what your garden soil needs, top the soil with an inch or two of compost and then, based on your test results, talk with someone at your local garden center about which specific products to use.

6. Pruning

If you haven’t pruned your plants, shrubs and trees yet this year, spring is the time. Pruning is necessary for the health of the plants. Done right, pruning encourages the plants to grow and keeps them healthy and growing all season long. Be sure to research what plants need pruning in the spring and which ones are best left alone.

7. Planting

Once the soil is soft enough to work with, there are some plants that enjoy an early planting. Just be prepared to cover if there is frost in the forecast. Early flowers include: snapdragons, lilac, pansies, and tulips. For vegetables, you can plant peas, lettuce, arugula, cabbage, and spinach early as well.

The post Your Spring Gardening To-Do List appeared first on GardenLovin.

Oh, dear! You’ve got a problem.

If you have unwelcome guests eating your garden plants you’re not along. Deer pose a serious problem to gardeners. While they are majestic and beautiful, they can be a real pain. Deer are often more difficult to deter than small bugs and critters because they can get through most barriers.

The best way to eliminate deer is simply to plant the types of things they don’t typically like. There are certain deer-resistant plants, flowers, and shrubs to keep the herds away from your garden. It’s important to plan your strategy based on what they like, and what they don’t.

Which plants do deer like?

Deer love narrow-leafed evergreens, especially arborvitae and fir, and show a particular preference for hostas, daylilies, and English ivy. Interestingly, several participants in a study in Rhode Island noted that deer seem to prefer plants that have been fertilized to those that haven’t.

Which plants do deer dislike?

It’s important to note that nothing is really off the table for Deer. If they are hungry enough, they’ll eat almost any kind of garden plant and shrub. Nevertheless, there are some plants that deer (usually) do not like to eat.

·     Poisonous Plants: Not surprisingly, deer tend to stay away from poisonous plants including daffodils, foxgloves, and poppies. These make great options for a flower garden (keeping kids and pets in mind).

·     Fragrant Plants: Deer also avoid fragrant plants with strong scents. Gardeners can use this to their advantage by planting herbs such as sages or lavender in their gardens. Flowers like peonies and bearded irises, are also “stinky” to deer.

·     Textured Plants:Plants with a prickly texture are also not a deer’s first preference. If you feel small hairs on the leaves – whether bristly or soft – it’s probably a good plant choice for deer proof gardens. Lambs ear and other unique textures such as spirea or roses are usually passed over by deer.

• Grasses: Surprisingly, deer don’t like grass. They would much prefer flowering plants and woody shoots. The deer can’t survive on grasses alone, so they are naturally drawn to other options.

It’s important to understand that each herd eats differently, so gardening with deer requires patience and experimentation in your area. Below is a list of plants that are generally considered to be deer resistant.

• Yarrow
• Monkshood
• Ageratum
• Onion
• Allegheny Serviceberry
• Snapdragon
• Horseradish
• Tarragon
• Silver Mound
• Jack-in-the-pulpit
• Wild Ginger
• Asparagus
• Aster
• Astilbe
• Barberry
• Borage
• Butterfly Bush
• Common Boxwood
• Lenten or Christmas Rose
• Cactus
• Pot Marigold
• Blue Mist Shrub
• Dusty Miller
• Bachelor’s Buttons
• Spider Flower
• Autumn Crocus
• Larkspur
• Lily of the Valley
• Threadleaf Coreopsis
• Corydalis
• Broom
• Daphne
• Bleeding Heart
• Common Foxglove
• Wood Fern
• Purple Coneflower
• Small Globe Thistle
• Bluebell
• Winer Aconite
• Snow-on-the-Mountain
• Spurge
• Blue Fescue
• Crown Imperial, Fritilia
• Snowdrops
• Baby’s Breath
• Strawflower
• Heliotrope
• Hyssop
• American Holly
• Winterberry Holly
• Iris
• Juniper
• Lantana
• Lavender
• Statice
• Sweet Alyssum
• Horehound
• Lemon Balm
• Mint
• Bee Balm
• Forget-Me-Not
• Bayberry
• Daffodil
• Catmint
• Basil
• Fern
• Pachysandra
• Peony
• Poppy
• Russian Sage
• Dwarf Alberta Spruce
• Anise
• Pine
• Cinquefoil
• Buttercup
• Fragrant Sumac
• Rosemary
• Black-Eyed Susan
• Rue
• Willows
• Garden Sage
• Lamb’s Ear
• Common Lilac
• Common Tansy
• Germander
• Thyme
• Yucca
• Arrowwood Viburnum
• Zinnia

When are deer nearby?

The heaviest browsing occurs from October through February, when food is naturally scarce. During this time, it is important to utilize as many deer resistant strategies you can.

Deer resistant garden plans should complement the existing landscape and enhance the area. We want our gardens to be protected without looking like Fort Knox. In addition to altering your planting, there are a few other tips and tricks that seem to work well. You’ll likely need to combine two or more strategies to find something that works in your area.

·     Deer Fencing:The only way to truly keep deer from eating your plants is to fence them out. However, because deer can easily jump an 8-foot fence, building one to keep them out it easier said than done. Putting up a proper deer fence is time consuming and expensive. You may want to consider options like a rock barrier that the deer can’t walk over, cattle guards which can be quite useful, or even electric fence option but not all areas allow them.

·     Deer Repellants: Using these topicals religiously can make a huge difference in how many deer venture on to your property. There are dozens of effective deer repellents on the market, but they all work a little differently. You have to be very diligent about using them. Most deer repellents should be applied at least once a week without fail. The best deer repellents and deterrents stick to the leaves and use a combination of odor and teste to deter the deer. The consistency of using them is more important than which product you choose. They all work fairly well if you are diligent in applying it.

·     Scare them away: One of the best ways to deter deer is simply to scare them away. Deer are naturally skittish, so any type of movement is a good one. One of the most effective methods is motion-activated sprinklers. Your garden gets a little extra watering and the deer are scared off to the next garden they can find.

If the best defense is a good offense, then it makes sense to start by choosing deer-resistant plants. Just about every state has a university cooperative extension service that can provide a list of plants that are generally less popular with the local deer.  Once you have chosen your plants, keep other deer deterrent options on hand in case you need a little extra help managing those pesky pests.

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Nothing ruins your garden faster than obnoxious weeds. They are ugly, harsh relentless and the enemy of every gardener. These uninvited guests not only ruin the look of your garden beds, but they are stealing both space and nutrients from the plants you are trying to grow. Whether you want to grow plants or beautiful blooms, weeds got to go.

Getting rid of weeds is often easier said than done. First, many harsh weed kills can actually kill your plants as well. At the very least, they often affect your blooms or vegetable yield. Second, pulling weeds every single day is back-breaking work that is often difficult, especially for older gardeners, and time-consuming. Most of us don’t have time to spend pulling weeds every day.

Third, sophisticated systems, methods, and tools are often expensive and ineffective anyway.

To help you in your fight against pesky weeds, we have gathered the most popular ways to kill weeds naturally. These methods have been tried and proven by master gardeners across the country to take care of weeds once and for all (at least for now).

1.     Give them yesterday’s news

An old newspaper is a great way to block sunlight and oxygen from reaching the soil. This method will smother weeds already sprouted and prevent new ones from growing. Throw down newspaper in 10-sheet layers, get it nice and wet to hold it down, and then cover with mulch. The newspaper will eventually decompose and actually nourish the soil, while eliminating your weedy frenemies.

2.     Cup of tea, minus the tea. 

Use a tea kettle to make a nice steaming solution of boiling water and then take it outside and douse your weeds. They will burn up and die right before your eyes and it’s a rather satisfying way to start your day. This is a particularly good way to eliminate driveway and walkway weeds, because the boiling water will run off impervious surfaces and cool before it reaches border plants.

3.     Keep the median clear

Two ways to prevent weeds in between garden rows is by using old shower curtains or scraps of carpet underneath the soil in areas where you’re not planting. These seemingly useless household items will keep weeds from ever showing their unwanted heads. Preventing weeds in between rows can also help control them in the plants themselves.

4.     Hit ‘em with a little salad dressing 

Vinegar will suck the life out of plant leaves. The acetic acid is most destructive to young plants with immature roots, making it the perfect weed killer. However, vinegar is an equal opportunity killer, so it’s important to protect your other plants and be careful to keep your spray on-target.

Tip: Remove the bottom from a 2-liter plastic soda bottle, and place it over the weed. Spray vinegar into the top of the bottle, which will keep it from splattering or over spraying on your plants and vegetables.

For established weeds, you may need something stronger. Sometimes you can purchase a vinegar solution wherever your garden supplies are sold. Look for a twenty percent acetic acid vinegar solution that can either be sprayed or injected to kill weeds at the source. Always be very careful about where you apply, and try to avoid spraying on breezy days.

5.     Get them drunk

If oil and vinegar doesn’t work, hit them up with a drink after work. Just enough to get them buzzed is also enough to keep them from popping up again. Mix 1 ounce mixed with 2 cups of water. This solution will dry out weeds that live in the sun. Again, it’s important to protect plants that are nearby. You can use the soda bottle trick, or inject the solution near the base. Keep in mind, this works best when the sun helps to dry out the plant, so it might not be as effective on shady plants.

6.     Give them a good cleaning 

Soap is a great way to kill hardy weeds. The oil present in soap can break down waxy or hairy weed surfaces, making them vulnerable to desiccants. So adding liquid dish detergent to a vinegar or vodka solution helps to keep the liquid on the leaves and makes them more susceptible to the negative effects. Just a few drops is more than enough, you don’t need to overdo it. Soap is also great to use because it makes the leaves shiny so you can keep track of what you’ve sprayed.

7.     A little sprinkling of corn 

This is an oldie but a goodie. Gardner’s have been using corn gluten meal for years to prevent seeds from growing into weeds. Corn gluten is available in granules, a fine powder, or pellets. No matter what form you buy it in, it has the ability to prevents germination and acts as a “pre-emergent” weed suppressant. It won’t kill established weeds or plants but will prevent new weeds from growing. Spread it around your plants evenly only after seedlings and transplants have taken hold in the soil. After harvest, you can spread the meal across the whole planting area to prevent late-season weeds.

If you’ve tried them all and nothing seems to be making a difference, you can usually find organic and natural weed killers at your home and garden supply store. Anytime you purchase a weed killer it’s important that you know the ingredients that are in it, and the type of weeds you’re trying to target. Dumping a bunch of products on your plants and hoping something works is bound to do more harm than good. If you’ve got a pesky weed problem that isn’t going away, take the time to research the type of weeds you’re dealing with and what is making it so easy for them to take over. Take your research to the local nursery or garden club. Learn more from the experts in your area as to what they use and what might work best in your region to kick those pests to the curb.

The post How to Stop Weeds Naturally appeared first on GardenLovin.

The avocado is no longer the new kid on the block. This heart-healthy fruit has taken over the produce section. Popular for dieters, foodies, and kids, we can’t get enough of the green stuff. The only problem is, avocados can be expensive. Sometimes running prices at almost a dollar for just one. Wouldn’t it be nice to grow your own avocados, harvest your own guacamole and reap your own nutrient-rich foods? Good news. It’s easier than you think. Let’s get started!

Seed, Pits, or Trees?

Yes, you can grow an avocado plant from an avocado pit. Yes, you can grow an avocado plant in your home. No, neither of these options are likely to bring you fruit. Avocado plants started as seeds won’t be mature for at least 4 years. Some may take as long as 10 years to yield any fruit, and some may not yield fruit at all. Growing plants from the pit can be a neat experiment for kids, and can pay off for those with a couple decades of patience, but starting from a young tree is the best way to get fruit while you’re still around to actually eat it.

Starting with Soil

Avocado trees like the soil’s pH around 6 to 6.5. If you’re not sure what the pH of your soil is, you can usually find an inexpensive test kit. If you have a heavy clay soil, you will want to elevate your tree in a mound between 12-24 inches high and 3-5 feet around for better drainage. Keep the soil around the tree as pure as possible, don’t use gravel or other planting media. The sooner the roots get into the bulk soil, the better the tree will do.

Planting Your Tree

Keep in mind that mature avocado trees can be quite large, and they produce a dense shade, and shed leaves or flowers all year long. Choose a place where the tree can thrive, and have room to take root. The best area to plant your tree would be the southern side of your home in an area that has well-drained soil. Dig a hole that is two to three times wider and deeper than the container it was shipped in, so that those roots have enough room to get established.

You also can grow a tree in a container, which is wise if you live in an area that experiences cold winters. Choose a container that is at least twice as large as the existing root ball of a young tree. Make sure that you place it in front of a large window or in an area that gets a minimum of 6 hours of direct sun per day. Container trees likely won’t produce fruit, but still make a beautiful tree.

Adding Water

Avocado trees typically need to be watered two to three times a week when they are first planted. Seedling trees need smaller, but more frequent watering while larger trees can take bigger drinks less frequently.  As the roots grow and reach down into the soil, you can apply a deeper watering just once a week or so. This should only be after the first year. You don’t want the soil to ever get too dry. Check the soil before watering each time to make sure it has dried somewhat. If the soil from around the roots can hold the impression of a hand when squeezed, it has enough water.

Fertilizer and Food

Avocado trees like plenty coarse yard mulch, but not too close to the trunk. Choose something bulky and woody around the tree base, and mulch the area with 6 inches of mulch, keeping the material about 6 to 8 inches away from the tree trunk. Young avocado trees also like a little basic home fertilizer to help them gain strength. You can spread out fertilizer applications over the course of the year to a total of one-half to one full pound of nitrogen.

Creating a Community

Avocado trees are social creatures. They like to be near other avocado trees. Trees grown in groups tend to yield more fruit that is larger than a tree grown on its own. Though the Hass, Cold Hardy, and Day varieties will product fruit on their own, if you have more than one plant, it’s always better. Having a community of trees helps with pollination, and fruit retention. If you’re planting multiple trees, leave about 5-8 feet of space between the trees and any structure.

Pruning

Avocado trees don’t need a lot of maintenance or pruning. The only time you will need to prune your tree is in the late winter or early spring just to clean it up and get rid of dead wood. If you want to maintain a certain height, then you can trim the tree lightly by cutting the tallest branch off. If you would like to maintain width, then you can also trim the longest branch and work your way in each year branch by branch.

Finding the Fruit

Be patient with avocado trees. The fruit will come, but it may take a few years. With new trees, expect fruit within four year, but not before. Avocado trees may flower, and lots of flowers will fall without setting fruit, this is the normal process of the tree and nothing has gone wrong. Nurture the growth of the tree and your results will pay off soon enough.

Eventually, a mature avocado tree will produce 100-200 pieces of fruit per tree. Many times these fruits only grow to the size of a walnut before falling off. This is pretty typical, and nothing to be concerned about.

Harvesting

Once your tree is mature enough to produce full-size fruit, the full harvest depends on the variety of avocado. Hass Avocados are ready to harvest as early as February to as late as September. Cold Hardy avocados usually ripen between November and March, and Day avocados are harvested from July through September. Avocados are ready to harvest when they ripen within 7-21 days after picking. To test your avocado, pick one and let it sit. If it turns rubbery or shrivels up, they aren’t ready to harvest yet. If it gets soft and delicious in a week or so, it’s time to harvest. There’s no rush to harvesting avocados. The longer the fruit can stay on the tree, the richer the taste. However, avocados must be picked by hand. Otherwise, the fruit will stay on the tree and never ripen.

What about winter?

Avocado trees are native to warm areas like California, Florida, Mexico and Central and South American countries. They like the sun and don’t do well when it dips below 45 degrees. There are some varieties that can handle colder climates. For example, the Mexican avocado is the hardiest and can survive temperatures of 18 degrees Fahrenheit. The Guatemalan and West Indian varieties will often die at anything below 25 degrees Fahrenheit.

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Your landscape design is much like your interior design. You need several elements to make it work and look beautiful. Similar to the inside of your home, your landscaping needs a variety of shape, color, texture and height.

Earthworks is a term used to collectively describe mounded soil used in a variety of ways. Earthworks can be created for either practical or aesthetic purposes. And there are several different styles and shapes, depending on your property.

A golf course is a great example of all different types of earthworks used in conjunction. There are rolling fairways, bunkers along the edges, and berms on the greens and mounds in between. For residential purposes, we’ll focus on berms and mounds.

Berms and Mounds

Berms and mounds are very similar in nature. They are both elevated areas of your landscape.  Berms are often linear link a river bank. A mound is shaped like an island. Mounds tend to be a little bit lower and wider to facilitate taller plants on top.

A berm or a mound is an easy way to add interest and height to the landscape, especially in dull, flat lawn areas. They can also be practically used for privacy, blocking unsightly views, creating a foot traffic trail, helping with drainage, or simply creating a focal point in the lawn.

Creating a berm or mound in your landscape is fairly simple but may require some landscaping machinery, depending on how big your property is.

Step 1: Make a Plan

Before you decide to integrate earthworks into your landscape, it’s a good idea to talk to a landscape architect or civil engineer to create a detailed grading and drainage plan. Berms can be a very strategic move. Mounds or berms must completely integrated with your grading and drainage plan. Berms are particularly important when used to force water to flow away from the home. They are also valuable where a homesite may sit adjacent to a drainage canal, ditch, dry wash, creek or river. When adding a berm to an existing landscape, they must also be careful to not interfere with the existing drainage system.

Step 2: Decide on a Shape and Size

Creating the right size of berm is important because if you make it too big, it will look out of place on your property. If it’s too small it looks a little awkward and insignificant. Generally, a berm should be about four to five times as long as it is high, gradually trailing or spreading out into the lawn. Larger berms can be created with varying sizes and with more than one peak. The depth is normally up to you; however, most berms are generally no higher than 18 to 24 inches.

Most berms have a crescent-looking shape, but that doesn’t have to be the case. Anything goes as long as it first into or flows with your surrounding landscape. Typically curving berms are usually much more natural looking. When you’re considering adding a berm. Layout the shape in your lawn with flour, chalk, or spray paint and see how it looks. If it looks too big, too small, or unnatural, you can adjust it before it’s permanent.

Step 3: Dig and Fill

Berms are often constructed using some type of fill, such as sand, plant debris, rubble or asphalt, and soil. If you plan to use your berm for plans, you’ll want to use soil amended with compost. If you’re creating a very large berm, you can use different types of recycled objects in place of fill as long as the material is capable of retaining stability without deteriorating. But keep most of the material as fill.

Start piling up the fill or to create a sloping mound in the shape you’ve laid out. As you work, be sure you’re shaping the mount to blend in naturally, not sticking out like a sore thumb. The transition between your existing landscape and the slope of the berm should be very gradual. If it looks like a speed bump or a cliff, you’ve got some work to go. As you go, tamp the berm firmly to prevent air pockets and collapse. Simply add more soil and keep tamping until it’s relatively solid.

Step 4: Add a Border, or Don’t.  

Some mounds can simply flow into the lawn itself without a clear boundary while others have distinct edging. A berm or mound can be edged with attractive stones, plants, or other border options. Adding a border is a good idea if your berm is filled with soil or bark that you don’t want running into the lawn.

Step 5: Plant Your Plants

Landscape Berms make a great place for show-stopping plants, privacy trees, or stunning garden beds. In any type of mound or berm, you must plan for a microclimate. that will affect your plants.

Plants at the top need to be more drought tolerant since water drains more quickly at the top of a mount. Likewise, keep moisture-loving plants at the bottom. Also consider the overall temperature and sun exposure of both sides of the berm. Plants should always emphasize the berm’s form with taller plants at the top and wider plants at the bottom. Always add mulch to your berm plantings to help reduce erosion, and add insulation.

The most common mistake is making mounds and berms too steep to support plants. Grade as gently as possible to make sure that your roots don’t dry out from running water.

Let’s get to work!

As you work with earthworks in your landscape, remember that almost nothing in nature is symmetrical. Creating mounds of irregular shape will always create a more natural look than trying to make everything perfect. Put the highest point of your mount one end or the other, rather than in the middle. Make the top a little flat, rather than a dirt cliff, create a shape that is soft and asymmetrical.

Using earthworks on your property is a great way to add depth texture, and height to an otherwise bland lawn and create a beautiful landscape design.

I hope you enjoyed this information and wish you the best on your yard project. Remember these ideas with a pin below!

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Between weather, weeds, insects, and soil conditions, it can be feat to get anything to grow in your garden. If you are trying to put food on the table, this can be even more difficult, especially if you are trying to adhere to organic protocols.

Bugs don’t care whether you are trying to grow organic vegetables or not, they will still show up for an all-you-can-eat buffet. While most pesticides give quick solutions to eliminating pests, they can also be potentially harmful to the food you’re trying to grow.

There are a number of solutions to garden pests that still adhere to organic guidelines. These approaches are less traditional, but can reduce or remove insects completely. Be sure the methods you choose are eliminating only the problem pests and not the insects that can help growth.

Pick Your Pest

Mother Earth News conducted a survey of 1300 gardeners across the country and what pests are their biggest problems and what are the most effective organic solutions. There were 4 main pests that almost all gardeners had to deal with.

·     Slugs: The number one pest slot goes to the slug. Over half of gardeners deal with these slimy critters. The most successful method for beating slugs was simply picking them up and tossing them away. Iron phosphate baits, and diatomaceous earth were also highly effective. Surprisingly, beer traps also had an 80 percent success rate.

·     Squash Bugs: These bugs are particularly fond of squash plants, and ruined them for almost half of the survey respondents. For most, the most effective method was handpicking and thoroughly cleaning up infested plants at the end of the season.

·     Cabbageworms: These little white butterflies might seem harmless, but experienced gardeners know the damage they can cause. Most gardeners rely on Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) and spinosad for dealing with cabbage worms. However, row covers also seemed to be somewhat effective.

·     Aphids: It’s no surprise these bugs made the list. They tormented 50 percent of gardeners, but they also have high success rates of elimination. The best method was simply to prune off the affects area and apply insecticidal soap. Also attracting beneficial insects was proven helpful.

Prevention:

Perhaps the best organic pest control is simply to prevent them from showing up in the first place. Take care of your plants by pulling out any weaker stems, building healthy soil, and rotating your crops on a regular basis. Keep foliage dry and keep your garden free of debris where bugs may like to hide. This is a great way to start getting your pest problem under control.

While it is always a good idea carefully tend to your plants and give them the attention they need to thrive, some pests are persistent. There are sprays and insecticide options that don’t include harmful chemicals.

Tree Hugger recommends 8 different natural insecticides, but still gives a word of caution when trying natural methods:

“Just because these are ‘natural’ or homemade insecticides, that doesn’t imply that they couldn’t harm your soil, your garden, or your person. An insecticide is defined as “a substance used to kill insects,” and as such, they have the potential to “significantly alter ecosystems” and can be toxic to humans and other animals, so before going all out with any pesticide or insecticide, be sure to do your homework and choose the most effective, least harmful (to you and your garden) option.”

The following are just three of the methods recommended by Tree Hugger as a great place to start for natural pest control options.

1. Oil Spray:

This is a combination of 1 cup vegetable oil to 1 TB soap. Best used for aphids, mites, thrips, etc. Simply combine in a spray bottle and spray directly on the surfaces of the plants. They say this works by coating the bodies of the insects, and blocks the pores through which they breathe, which suffocates the bugs.

2. Neem Oil:

Neem oil is a natural insecticide. It disrupts the life cycle of insects at all stages by acting as a hormone disruptor and as an “antifeedant”. It is biodegradable and is nontoxic to other animals. It may also help with mildew and fungal infections in plants and can be found at many garden or natural food stores.

3. Garlic insecticide spray:

It is the strong and well-known scent of garlic that can be used as a natural insecticide. Make a basic garlic spray by creating a garlic paste in a food processor with two bulbs and a bit of water. Let the mixture sit overnight and then strain it into a quart jar, adding 1/2 cup of vegetable oil (optional), 1 teaspoon of mild liquid soap, and enough water to fill the jar. This create a concentrate that is ready to use throughout the year by mixing one cup of the mixture with 1 quart of water and spraying on infested plants. You can also make a similar spray with chili peppers.

4. Diatomaceous Earth:

This is a natural substance made from a sedimentary rock created by fossilized algae (diatoms). It is fairly easy to find and can be used in a lot of ways both in the garden and around the home. For plants, it simply absorbs the lipids from insects and dehydrates them to death. You can simply purchase diatomaceous earth at garden stores and dust the ground around your plants. This works great for snails and slugs and other crawling insects.

Every organic gardener seems to have their own methods they swear by. It always seems to be a special blend and a secret ratio of ingredients that spells success. The only way to discover what works best for you is by paying close attention to the effects of a specific recipe, and modify I as necessary.

Always be carefully about what you’re using and what the desired result is. A healthy ecosystem is usually the most effective option for clean, delicious eating. This requires beneficial insects, microbes and fungi to work together. The more you can work with the ecosystem instead of against it, the more successful you will be.

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